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Monday, February 8, 2016

Bare Bones

      A fashion illustration isn't always the best way to get a look at the actual construction of a garment- they tend to be more focused on showing the style rather than the substance, expression rather than details. The forest was drawn in 1930 by an unknown artist; now let's take a look at some trees.

   This first set shows the version of the dress depicted in the original illustration, complete with cuffs, collar, and belt. As is typical for both the era's preferred silhouette and modern fashion conventions, the original illustration is noticeably more elongated than the actual garment created by the pattern (fabric choices will also have quite an effect on the overall shape). The lower bodice pieces are gathered or eased along a seam located at the natural waistline.  


      This seam, along with the yokes and side closure, allows for significant fitting adjustments to be made (to varying degrees of historical accuracy). The set-in sleeves are also fitted at the forearm with a dart that apexes at the elbow and opens into a buttoned closure at the wrist.

     The skirt has a fair bit of flare, which should be taken into account when selecting a fabric. Stiffer fabrics will retain this silhouette, while fabrics with a soft hand will drape from the hip yoke into a more sheath-like, fluted shape. This same effect will be mirrored in the epaulette oversleeves, on a smaller scale, although softer fabrics can be interfaced if you wish to preserve the structure.



      While this version has no shortage of era charm, the design also lends itself well to several possibilities for variations that wouldn't look out of time today, all without making any changes to the pattern pieces themselves. Even something as simple as removing the collar and cuffs creates a considerable difference in the overall feel of the dress.



       All without even touching on the possibilities for color blocking... yet.
  

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